According to Stella McCartney the line between office and night wear is not that thick. The collection was dominated by pinstriped suit pieces, but also turned into a loungewear collection. The dresses had a slouchy silhouette and the materials present where relaxed but still in a sophisticated matter. The color scale was neutral with black, navy and off white, with different strong shades of purple as accent color. Comfortable definetely have to be one of the key words for this collection, but somehow McCartney still manages to make it look exquisite.
Isabel Marant surprised everybody with this collection, stripped from Elvis, cowboy and native american detailing. Instead a chic but fairly minimalistic collection was presented, consisting of key pieces in the colors navy, black and cream. As always Marant has made a couple of things that are above craveable. The knee high pony hair boots are one of those, as well as the more luxurious version of her now classic wedge sneaker. But somehow the collection felt a little to simple and plain.
Even though Haider Ackermann did not manage to surpass last season’s greatness of a collection for autumn/winter, he should have credit for trying a new path of creating. Perfect tailoring and loosely fitted silhouette, although sometimes with emphasized shoulders and waist, were still there obviously along with other characteristic features in grey, mustard and darker hues, but something was still missing. It might have lacked cohesiveness, or integrity even, leaving one lost in the dark of what expression to remember from the show. Instead however, you would focus on pieces individually, like the magnificent fur pieces in particular being the newest territory of the designer. With such a profoundly bottomed identity, Haider Ackermann can afford to experiment and perhaps just have to in order to move forward to the next chapter, even though the result is not always answering its potential aesthetically.
Ann Demeulemeeester continues on the path of poetry for her autumn/winter collection, presenting an array of black and white layers. Instead of looking at other sources for inspiration, she turned to herself to become the protagonist of the collection, meaning she would only create pieces she favors herself. And certainly, it was all there, the asymmetrical orchestral jacket, disordered layers of silk and wool, lace up boots and details such as feathers and leather belts. A poem we recall from previous experience, and sometimes, it is just nice to stop the clock for a while and enjoy a moment of beauty.
It is more than reducing to call this a ready-to-wear collection, it is simply put, casual couture. But there is also a simplicity to the pieces that is almost touching, only with a couple of colorful details made of Warhols early drawings. Other than that the collection was mostly monochrome with black and white. The two patterns present was mostly dogtooth and also some beautiful creations of decorative flowering. The materials seem light and make the silhouette moving and a bit magical.