I våras gav vi ut fjärde upplagan av Jeans Helt Enkelt, ett magasin som visar hur vi på JC tolkar säsongens trender. Nu kan du läsa magasinet. Fast som film? Låter kanske rörigt, kolla...
The Fashion Weeks blog follows the fashion weeks around the world's fashion cities. Here you can look forward to a full coverage with exclusive material from the season's most important fashion events. View photos from shows and collections, join us backstage and get inspired by street style-fashion. The Fashion Weeks blog also shows exciting interviews and clips of people in the fashion industry.
On the third and last day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm 2012 our tv-hostess Emilia de Poret talkes to Tiger, Jonas Hallberg, Axwell and many more of Swedens trendsetters
Max Factor TV, Jan 2012, Episode 2
Episode 2 of Max Factor TV brings you the autumn/winter news from Lexington, Dagmar, Cheap Monday and Busnel to name a few.
Max Factor TV, Jan 2012, Episode 1
The Max Factor Award opens Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Stockholm Autumn/Winter 2012.
With all due respect, New York, London and Milan have got nothing on Paris. Even though all the international fashion weeks bring something interesting and unique to the table, Paris fashion week is considered the fashion week, and rightly so. Unlike Milan (another city with a remarkable fashion ancenstry), Paris somehow manages to maintain its fashion heritage yet never fails to nurture new talent. This time was no different. To me, Paris fashion week is about so much more than just what’s shown on the runway. There is a certain energy and sense of excitement permeating not only the show locations but basically the whole city; going to Paris for fashion week simply makes me remember why I fell in love with fashion in the first place.
So what about the shows then? Well, as always some were a mere disappointment (yes, Karl Lagerfeld/Chanel, I’m talking about you), some were ok (Isabel Marant, Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh), and some were kind of brilliant. Nicolas Ghesquière’s f/w collection for Balenciaga, inspired by offices and the powerdressing of the 80′s, definitely belongs to the latter category, and so does the Givenchy show, where Riccardo Tisci presented a beautiful collection for fall.
Another highlight of the week was Stefano Pilati’s last collection for YSL, which was fetisch-inspired, crazy sexy and beautifully tailored. Rick Owens (a personal favorite of mine) presented a quite moving show inspired by the architectual movement referred to as ‘brutalism’, which was kind of funny since this (like Tim Blanks stated in his review on Style.com) might be Owens least brutal collection ever. The fashion industry’s darling, Phoebe Philo, succeded to create yet another great collection (especially the coats and jackets) for Céline, this season funnily enough also inspired by brutalist architecture.
Last but not least, I’d like to mention Dries van Noten, who, to the tones of Bon Iver’s beautiful song “Woods” undoubtely presented one of the absolute strongest collections of the season, inspired by Asian iconography.
”Quis hic locus, quae regio, quae mundi plaga?” What is this world, what kingdom, what shores of what world?
- Seneca’s Hercules Furens (The Mad Hercules), Act 5, line 1138
This quote, which happens to be one of my absolute favorites, comes to mind when watching Sarah Burton’s fall collection for 2012, cause this truly is a collection that seems as if it had been created in a kingdom far, far away. The theatricality and sense of drama that made McQueen so famous was there as usual, but this time it all felt somewhat different. When explaining her vision for Fall, Sarah Burton said that she wanted to show something with a positive vibe, which was showing in the parade of white, princessy dresses that was sent down the runway.
When Sarah Burton was looking to show us lightness and optimism, I can’t help but think of Alexander Mcqueen himself, who was more eager to show us the beauty in what is imperfected, sometimes even lugubrious. However beautiful and enchanting this collection may be, I am missing the depth and complexity that I believe is key to the usually so haunting quality of McQueen.
In theory, Clare Waight Keller’s fall collection for 2012 sounds like a winner, since the inspiration was said to be a fusion of traditional British outerwear, and the sophistication and ease that’s so significant for the way French people dress. It could’ve gotten pretty interesting, but unfortunately it felt somewhat overthought, almost like a sort of parody of what Chloé is all about.
There certainly were some good pieces though, like a few powdery coats and bombers, and the colour palette was beautiful; mostly pastels and neutrals with elements of deep blue and burgundy. With this collection it’s proven that Claire Waight Keller really gets the feminine and relaxed sophistication that is the trademark of Chloé, but for next season I would wish for her to take the brand a bit further and incorporate more of her own vision into her design.
Stefano Pilati’s last collection for Yves Saint Laurent was as black as funeral cortege. An extremely sexy and chic funeral cortege, that is. The collection, which was filled with leather pieces, chain dresses and metal accents, was literally oozing sex and hidden, dark fetishes. As always with Stefano Pilato, it was impeccably chic and beautifully tailored, and therefore luckily felt expensive rather than cheap (which otherwise often can be an issue when it comes to making explicit “sexy” fashion).
Pilati, like basically every other designer this season, showed a marked waist for fall and slighly exaggerated shoulders paired with knee-lenght skirts and dresses, creating a very strong silhouette that takes some guts to rock. Personally I would consider this to be one of Pilati’s best collections ever for Yves Saint Laurent, and I am looking forward to see what he’s gonna do next.
Inspired by office environments and the powerdressing of the 80′s, Nicolas Ghesquière presented Balenciaga’s fall collection on an unusual location – a Paris skyscraper. Key elements were the significant play with proportions, (exaggerated shoulders, stiff mid-length skirts and some really slouchy trousers) the marked waist and the crazy logo sweaters. The color palette consisted mainly of black, grey and accent colors such as blue, scarlet, and fuschia with a splash of unripe lemons.
Given the thought that Balenciaga is by far one of the most important and trendsetting fashion houses, I’d guess we’ll just have to start prepare ourselves for a fall season defined by a somewhat futuristic nostalgia trip back to the 80′s.
Having been a very dark fashion week in Milan so far, Raf Simons last collection for Jil Sander really was a much-needed ray of light and pastelly optimism. Beautiful powdery shades of pink, white and nude were mixed with black and bold scarlet in a collection that felt elegant in an aristocratic, Grace Kelly-ish way. As always with Simons design, the choice and use of materials were excellent, and the silhouettes were classical yet fresh and innovative.
Calf-lenght dresses and skirts paired with minimalistic oversized coats could have created a somewhat overly conservative impression, but the exposure of neck, shoulders and back makes it a lot younger and more interesting, since it adds a certain fragility to the pieces that makes the Jil Sander woman more vulnerable, and therefore more human.
Even though the thought of Jil Sander actually returning to Jil Sander (haha) is very exciting, I can’t help but feeling a little sad that Raf Simons is leaving since his last collections have been so appreciated, but hopefully he’ll create some more magic at Dior. Fingers crossed!
- V Ave Shoe Repair fick välförtjänt bra kritik för sin kollektion som kanske inte direkt var full av överraskningar, men väldigt fina och konceptuella plagg. Accessoarerna, de rejäla plastsmyckena, som är resultatet av ett samarbete med industridesignern Alexander Lervik sticker däremot ut desto mer.
- Altewai.Saome må ha dragit ner något på broderierna och blivit lite försvenskade, men det ser jag personligen inte som något negativt. Fina skjortor och ett smakfullt användande av pvc (en bedrift i sig).
Överraskning?
- Maria Nordström var helt, helt fantastisk. Words cannot describe. Plaggen med detaljer av musselskal(!) var sådär så man tappade andan lite. Visserligen var det hela kanske en aning Rick Owens-esque och visserligen var det kanske inte sådär extremt nyskapande, men det var så otroligt vackert att det liksom inte spelade någon roll.
Besvikelse?
- Att modellcastingen var så extremt homogen. De modeller med annat etniskt ursprung än det skandinaviska gick nog att räkna på ena handens fingrar. Det hela var fruktansvärt vitt. Riktigt ofräscht och omodernt.
Mest minnesvärda?
- Rossy de Palmas illusionskonster på Minimarkets visning är otvivelaktigen ett av mina starkaste minnen från denna säsongs modevecka. Kläderna då? De minns jag i ärlighetens namn inte särskilt mycket av.
Finaste visning?
- Ubi Sunts visning på Kungliga Ingenjörsvetenskapsakademin var veckans vackraste visning. Magiskt ljus, musik och stämning.
Som vinnare av The Max Factor Award 2012 fick Altewai.Saome inleda årets Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week i Stockholm den 30 januari.
Max Factor TVs första avsnitt visar Altewai.Saomes öppning med deras vackra detaljerade plagg och en sminkning med ledorden polerad hy och skuggspel. Tillsammans med Columbine Smille går Emilia de Poret backstage för att få en glimt av kollektionen innan modevisningen. Emilia pratar även med olika stylister, trendsättare och designers på andra modevisningar, såsom Whyred och Filippa K.
As the winner of The Max Factor Award 2012, Altewai.Saome got to open this years Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Stockholm.
Max Factors TVs first episode show the opening by Altewai.Saome with their beutiful detailed clothes and a natural make-up with wild eyebrowes. Emilia de Poret and Columbine Smille is backstage, where they get a chance to see the collection before everybody else. Emilia also visits other shows, as Whyred and Filippa K, where she talks to different stylists, designers and trendsetters.
